London Fashion Week has wrapped up but the fashion frenzy is far from over. So before you get sucked into the Milan Fashion Week fever, here’s our summing up of the LFW SS2016. After this recap you’ll be Milan ready.
The Big Guns
Burberry’s Big Show
The Burberry Prorsum show at Hyde Park was the highlight of LFW. Christopher Bailey’s big show had Alison Moyet performing live, accompanied by a 32-piece orchestra. And the audience was enthralled with not just the music but the collection too. “Functionregalia” was the theme and the collection lived up to the promise of fabulousness that you can wear. Burberry presented the much hyped nylon floppy backpack which is poised to become the “It’ accessory of the season much like their blanket ponchos a few seasons ago. The show comes close on the heels of the Burberry’s Apple Music Channel launch and the brand took the digital pitch a notch higher during LFW. They tied up with Snapchat to officially present the show story from the pieces(even before they made it to the runway) to backstage antics and preparation to the show invitees and Bailey’s guests! Trust Burberry to put on THE SHOW for the season. We’re still drooling over the lace trenches that were presented.
Erdem’s Big 10
Erdem Moralıoğlu’s show at the LFW marked the 10th anniversary of his eponymous brand Erdem. And the collection was a pure celebration of his signature style of using rich materials, the trademark floral prints- this time in jacquard and appliqué – and exquisite craftsmanship. Beautiful, willowy, breezy silhouettes in easy fabrics that screamed spring but the mood was surreal and sombre. We loved the almost ankle length maxis and the shoulder cut out details.
Christopher Kane’s Big Neon Flash
A flashing neon board could not have said it better. Kane’s collection, themed crash and repair, was a riot of bold neons, edgy lace work and studied haphazard embroidery. It was very well received for its innovative use of patchwork and ‘chaotic sticking’ and the play on colour blocking with techniques like spraying etc- all instantly connecting back to the theme of things having been taken apart and joined back together. The young designer always brings something fresh to the ramp and this time he totally had us at the colours!
Mary Katrantzou’s Big Bang
Enchanting. Breezy. Wearable. Cosmic. Four words that summed up a beautiful SS2016 RTW from Print Queen Mary Katrantzou inspired by the cosmos. The Greek designer is known for her signature use of prints which may vary from bold graphic ones to minimal delicate ones. But impactful they always are. And this time again the print story was taken forward but in beautiful A-line cuts and peplum silhouettes. We especially loved the shimmery party dresses.
Dame Vivienne Westwood in Activist Mode
The grand old lady of British fashion has always been an activist at heart be it stripping for PETA or vociferously supporting the Scottish Independence Movement. This time she raised her voice against climate change and austerity. Ahead of her show, she gathered a motley crew of supporters took to the streets raising slogans against government policies. Now if this was anyone else we’d have dismissed it as mere gimmickry and pre show theatrics but knowing how passionate Westwood is about causes, one can’t question the genuineness of the protest.
Giles Deacon’s Hall of Fame
The show made more headlines for the amazing model line-up than the collection itself. It was the modelling world Hall of Fame with big names like Karen Elson, Lily Donaldson, Eva Herzigova, Alek Wek, Erin O’Connor, and new stars like Bella Hadid, Andreja Pejic, Molly Bair and Georgia May Jagger walking the ramp wearing the designer’s collection. It was a truly thrilling show for the amazing line up!
Gareth Pugh’s Shiny Disco Balls
Inspired by the vibrant club culture in London’s trendy Soho, Gareth Pugh brought back the disco era with aplomb. It was a riveting show and the most theatrical at the LFW. It had all the elements of a heady night out with sequinned dresses and coloured spandex tights. And as if to highlight the slightly seedy and dark underbelly of this nightlife, the models wore nude stockings over their faces, with spiky clown wigs pulled tight back to exaggerate the forehead. Full marks for drama both on stage and in clothes!
Louis Vuitton Gatecrashes the LFW
Luxury power house Louis Vuitton crashed the LFW by hosting the opening of its much anticipated LV Series 3 exhibition being held at Strand London since 21st September. On till the 18th of October, the exhibition is a close and personal look at the creative process that went behind Creative Director Nicholas Nicolas Ghesquière’s collections for the brand. The opening was attended by the who’s who of the fashion and style world.
Of Sophie Webster & Mermaid Laundry
The young shoe designer is known for her whimsical and fantastical shoes and the LFW show was exactly up her alley. Showcasing her shoes and accessories collection for SS16, she made a big impression for the theatrics- Mermaids having laundered their tails walking in Sophie Webster shoes. The sets were replete with giant oysters and washing machines. Only in Sophie’s world can those two words come together in one sentence!
The Season’s Surprises
MM6’s Many Firsts
This was the first time MM6- the diffusion line from Maison Margiela- took to the London Fashion Week, normally they show at NFW. The second first was that this was the first full collection from MM6 under Creative Director John Galliano who took over the reins at the Maison Margiela last year. Street wear came alive at LFW with this collection with lots of denim and loose grunge T-shirts and free flowing silhouettes.
Versus vs Versace
The label’s first outing at LFW was full of punch and panache. Versus brought the house down with its sexy clothes- an easy relaxed sensuality that is extremely wearable and exciting. The leather wear and separates in prints were top notch and stylish use of the signature Versace lion crests was not missed. Anthony Vaccarello, the Versus’ first Creative Director appointed by Donatella Versace, has already made a big name for himself in the fashion world and has been often called the perfect fit for Versus. He has steadily been developing the brand’s aesthetics while borrowing heavily from the Versace universe but re-intepreting it for Versus- the younger sassier line from the label. After being helmed by Donatella herself, then Christopher Kane, Versus finally seems to be coming into its own.
A Dose of Hindmarch Humour
Anya Hindmarch’s show on last day of LFW took many by surprise. She is known for quirky and fun but over the top sense of humour in her designs. But there was a certain maturity in her collection inspired by London High Streets. The slogans were funny but meaningful and there was also a lot of pure design in her collection this time- geometrical patterns and groovy diagonal stripes. But don’t think our fav gag queen has become all prim. Her stamp was all over the bags and shoes with popular British brand logos like Mothercare, Boots, WHSmith becoming her playing field this time.
LFW was in major retro mood. From Gareth Pugh’s Disco era to MM6’s ode to grunge to Hindmarch’s 60s space chic designs. Retro looks were the flavour. 80s inspired looks was also a feature on the New York Fashion week if you’ll recall. The spring story is written on the ramp my friends. It’s #throwback all the way.
From Mary Katrantzou’s peplum ruffles, Erdem’s waterfall ruffles, Marques Almeida’s frayed ruffles to Roksanda’s delicate ruffles. Ruffles are here to stay in your spring wardrobe people.
Spring will be overdosing on lace. NYFW showed us that earlier on and the story continues with LFW. We particularly loved Burberry’s Lace Trench and Christopher Kane’s edgy lace work.
We saw chokers galore and it’s tipped to be the accessory of SS16. Christopher Kane had the most interesting ones- multicoloured plastic tie-up strips around the neck. JW Anderson’s chunky gold chokers were gorgeous. Even at Mary Katrantzou and Giles Deacon show models wore black ribbons and brown velvet chokers around the neck respectively. So get on to the choker hunt already.
Now you’re prepped up for the Milan Fashion Week SS16!
May the Force be with you!